Diary 1st - 9th December 2000 & Images
from my time in Cairns, Australia.

  Click to enlarge any image

Friday 1st December
I fell asleep soon after takeoff and woke up only to eat the lunch that was served during the flight. When next I opened my eyes Brisbane could be seen from the window and we landed 15 minutes later. The weather here is much warmer and the temperature is 39° today. I have a two and a half-hour wait in the airport lounge for my connecting flight to Cairns.

On arrival at the Rhiga Colonial Club Resort I found that as usual the hotel is not used to coping with modern Internet users like myself and I experienced some hassle over getting an ISP. After unpacking I took the hotel courtesy bus and went to town. At the supermarket I bought some breakfast cereal and a few other essentials before visiting an Internet Café. They were helpful and friendly but didn't know any local ISP so as back up by negotiated a deal whereby I could bring my laptop and logon to their server for 15 cents per minute. I told the salesman that I would return next day with my laptop if I wanted to avail myself of this service. It seemed quite expensive but was the best I could do under the circumstances.

Having finished my business in Cairns I took a taxi to Hotel and made farther inquiries from the Yellow Pages to try to find a better deal for uploading my web pages. Perseverance paid off and I soon found a provider who was prepared to let me have an hourly rate of $1.65 with a local telephone number. Normally local calls would cost 25 cents for unlimited duration but the hotel surcharge brings the price to 70 cents per call. This of course is much better than the Internet Café deal which works out at $1.65 for 11 minutes.

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The rooms in this resort haqve small windows and are not very bright
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but are well appointed with a full range of facilities.
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The resort is vast and getting lost if very easy
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The swimming pool is beautifully landscaped and relaxing
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The Rhiga Colonial Club Resort courtesy bus in town
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The harbour has many sailing boats on its waters

Feeling satisfied with my achievements I went back into town and called in at the Gay bar at James St. Here I was made very welcome by the barman and he gave me some information on the local scene. Here too they advised me that there would be a party at Nu Trix, the main gay disco in the town. Since the bar was not very busy and it was early in the evening I went into the city where I found a good selection of eateries and settled for a serve yourself as much as you want Chinese at the Foodhall. This was very reasonable at $13.80 including a glass of excellent Chardonnay wine.

With hunger gone from the belly and curiosity stimulating the mind I went to Nu Trix Disco at 2245 where there was a World Aids Day show taking place. The entrance charge of $15.00 was being donated to the local aids charity. They had many drag acts doing cabaret all of which were pretty amateur, all of which mined and few of which were better than the average amateur drag night in a London bar. Hopefully they made some good funds from the entrance fees but for my money, particularly since I gave a lot of time and effort when I was the volunteer editor for a local HIV and AIDS centre newsletter in London, I felt it was not a good deal. I stayed till 0200 but was never chatted up at all and I saw no one of interest that I felt inclined to initiate any kind of conversation with. I find the Australian gay scene is not very useful to me at all so far. At 0230 I took a taxi back to hotel and feeling a little peckish I had a couple of beef rolls and coffee before gone to sleep at 0320.

Saturday 2st December
As it is in the beginning of the monsoon season here blue skies and are generally only around in the morning. The weather is very hot with temperatures varying between 32 and 38 degrees and high levels of humidity. It was ten o'clock when I finally woke up and roused myself and after the usual ablutions, the bowl of cornflakes and the mandatory cup of coffee it was near 11 by the time I left my room. There is a courtesy bus that runs from the hotel to the town centre every hour and I made sure that I was on board when it left. I went directly to Trailfinders as I wanted to book some activities to fill the days between my scuba diving activities.

After waiting 20 minutes in the office, Chris Melick, the supervisor turned out to be very helpful and a well-informed adviser. I booked a hot air balloon flight, a trip up the mountains on the skytrain and a day's Whitewater rafting. On leaving Trailfinders I went to confirm my diving course that commences on Tuesday. I met an assistant, Kevin, who was very friendly, he booked me in for my course, gave me the necessary documentation to have the required medical and issued me with a diving manual, instructing me to read it and absorb as much as possible before I came to the first days tuition.

In the afternoon I went to Turtle Beach which is a gay owned resort about a 50 minutes coach trip north of Cairns. By the time I got there at 1630 the skies where grey and the sea had heavy breakers with a strong current. I didn't actually do much swimming but played about in the surf for a quarter of an hour with a couple of other chaps who were also enjoying the rough waves. It had been my intention to lie on the beach and read the diving manual, have a few drinks and then dining in the restaurant there. Due to the wind coming in on the beach and having to catch a bus back to Cairns at 1935 I had to revise my plans and spent the afternoon chatting to a couple of guys who were on holiday from Sydney and later a British lawyer named Mark who was very interesting fellow and like myself was travelling alone.

Back at my hotel I dined in the restaurant and had a superb Barracundi fish and a bottle of local white wine before retiring for an early night as I am leaving for the hot air balloon expedition at 0425. The early night did not commence until 0100 in the end as I used my laptop and got carried away as usual.

Sunday 3rd December
I had a very restless 3 hours sleep waking up several times though managing to drop of again fairly quickly. I rose at 0400, dressed and had coffee before going to reception at 0425 where the bus was waiting to go on the hot air ballooning trip.

The journey into the mountains took about an hour during which time the sun rose though the pale-orange skies which were nothing particularly spectacular. Minibuses arrived depositing their cargo of people who then milled around, many with cameras taking photographs of the balloons as they filled up. johan The pilot of our balloon was a very skilled young man who had built his own basket and balloon in the past. I learned from another member of the of the Hot Air Cairns company that in their search for the best they'd advertised internationally six months ago and Johan from South Africa had beaten both a Brit and a Canadian to get the job. His family were shipped out to Australia at the companies expense and they are impressed and very satisfied with their choice.

We climbed into the basket of the balloon, 14 of us altogether. The view below of the tableland surrounded on all sides by mountains gave me a feeling of blissful tranquillity and peacefulness. The absolute silence as everyone on board was captivated by the experience was only interrupted periodically by Johann firing the propane cylinders to increase our altitude. We drifted along on the thermal currents at speeds varying from 2 to 22 km per hour and rose to 4.500 feet.

The balloon flights are sold as 30 minute trips with each balloon making a maximum of two trips each morning. A hot air balloon has no steering mechanism of any kind and one has to rely on the understanding of air currents and the directions of prevailing wind if any to control the height and direction of flight. Johan explained that balloon races were not about the speed but about the ability to control where the balloon would land and the pilot landing closest to the spot would be the winner.

There is a camera suspended from the balloon and the pilot takes a couple of photographs of everyone on the trip with a view to selling them later. They are not available for viewing but are sold for $25 which includes postage to the buyers home, from a sample showing a photograph of the balloon and one from each of the two shots that would have been taken in flight.

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On arrival at the launch site we found the balloons were already being prepared
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Once filled the balloons are loaded and ready for lift-off
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Johan fired the burners the balloon slowly lifted us of the ground at six in the morning in such a gentle manner that it was hardly noticeable. The heat from the propane burners was intense as they filled the balloon with hot air.
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there was a great atmosphere of excitement and anticipation in the early morning light
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Soon we to were airborne and looking down at the final balloon rising up behind us
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Here you can see the camera suspended from the balloon. During the flight pilot Johan jokes and asks everyone to look at the camera, then using his remote control he takes a couple of photographs of everyone on the trip
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We passed over a quarry
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and continued floating effortlessly above the tableland looking down on those following
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and looking up we saw a balloon rising ahead of us
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Fortunately we had a morning with clear skies and could see every detail of the land beneath
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One of the passengers asked Johan to pose for a photograph and this is what be got
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He'd already given me his best portrait shot so now I caught him concentrating intensely on his job looking after his passengers safety.
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There is little sense of height because there is nothingto make a comparison with, even the balloons falling behind us seem like toys.
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As we drifted high and so far away we could see the vehicles following along always keeping in radio contact with a pilot so that when we landed the next party would be there ready to board. The coaches have to follow the balloons as best they can and as we near the end of the first flight
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we descend over a farmstead and scrap car merchant's.
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On our descent we were able to watch with interest as another balloon touches down briefly to reload for its second flight
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All too quickly the first 30 minutes were over and we came down very smoothly and accurately with long and short blasts of hot air as Johan controlled the rate of descent alongside the road some 40 m from where the coach had parked.
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There were many Japanese on this trip. The good-looking Japanese chap is called, Asia although he probably spells it differently to this, he wasn't going up again so I took his photograph at the first touchdown.
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Of the 14 people on our balloon four alighted and were replaced by 4 others for the second 30 minute flight. Within minutes we were again airborne and left the trailers to follow on. Unlike looking over the edge of a tall building there is no point of reference so I never felt any sense of fear or phobia from the height.
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One lady who had been on the first trip and was doing a second round had been pestering me for ages suggesting that I should let her take a photograph of me in the balloon. In the end, to get her off my back I gave her my camera.
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It was much brighter by the time the second fight lifted off and the earth below the showed more detail and colour
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for the four first timers there was the excitement we others had experienced half an hour earlier
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and for us 'seasoned veterans' there was the enjoyment of experiencing it all again
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All too soon the flight was coming to an end
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We watched as one balloon put down accurately
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gliding effortlessly over the farmers tending the crop below
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The passengers remained in the basket to give weight and stability whilst the balloon was deflated
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After the second and final landing both passengers and crew deflated the balloon,
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when all the air had been squeezed out then it was tied
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rolled into a ball and put into a canvas bag the balloon was then loaded onto the transporter followed by the basket.
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We boarded the coach for a 40 minute journey back toward Cairns where we stopped at this Wool Farm for a champagne breakfast.
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Those with video cameras were determined to capture as much as possible of the days event
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Finally with breakfast over, photo orders taken and everyone feeling pretty knackered we boarded the coach for the journey back to our respective hotels in Cairns.

All in all an exhilarating morning a unique and enjoyable experience and I arrived back at the Colonial Club before 10 o'clock.

In the afternoon I went into Cairns on the hotel bus. There I passed my medical examination that is required for me to go on the scuba diving course, asked the doctor to give me a prescription for amoxycillin in case I should need it in the future. He wrote it for me without any hassle and I went to the pharmacy to get the prescription. The doctor prescribed four pills per day for a seven day course. I paid for them then opened the box to check that it was the correct ingredient and discovered the pharmacist had given me only 20 tablets. When I queried this she told me it was natural. "Are you telling me it's natural for you to change the doctor's prescription without consulting him or me?"
"That is a normal dose that we give." she reiterated what she said before.
"I understand what your saying and I understood it the first time you said it. My question is why are you altering the prescription quantities that I wish to purchase without any consultation?" I persisted.
"Well it's what we normally do." she concluded adding something about government recommended dosages.
"I don't care what your government recommended dose is I want 28 tablets please as per the prescription I gave you."
"That will cost extra as you have only paid for 20 tablets." She returned behind her dispense counter to make up the difference.
"I have no problem in paying for what I want to buy, but as you've seen I do have a problem with pharmacists who arbitrarily alter my prescription without any consultation." I spoke to her disappearing back.
The sales girl who had served me the incorrect box had been standing listening to this conversation. Addressing her now I asked how much extra I would have to pay. After making some calculation she asked me for a further $2.50 bringing the total to $16.90. I bought some tablets that I thought would prevent my nose from constantly running and assist me in good breathing when I go diving then left the chemists.

Next I went to Woolworths supermarket where l bought some bread and Coca-Cola. Finally I made inquiries about hiring a vehicle for next Monday which is the only day I will have free while I'm Cairns. I discovered that it possible to hire a motor scooter so that may be an interesting alternative for my free day. Back at the hotel I went swimming in the pool before taking a well earned siesta.

Monday 4th December
After a fairly good uninterrupted sleep from midnight I woke up at 0550. Showered dressed ate a bowl of cereal, drank coffee and took a tablet to prevent the worst of my nose running.

The coach left at 7 o'clock for what turned out to be a two-hour journey. We stopped at a staging point after 90 minutes on the way, here we were offered a cup of coffee or tea and a filled roll. We were advised to make any final preparations and be ready to go rafting. There were shoes available to hire for those wearing inappropriate footwear. When I went to check it out I was told that my sandals would do me perfectly.

0061acairns.jpgAt our point of entry to the Tully river all 90+ people assembled and were issued with lifejackets and protective helmets. 0062acairns.jpgMost of the rafters were oriental, Japanese, Malaysian and some Chinese. Everyone put what baggage they were carrying on the ground and started to undress.
0063acairns.jpgAs the mass of youth changed I noticed a wide variety of colourful boxer shorts appearing.

0065bcairns.jpgOnce everyone was changed into suitable clothing we stored our fresh dry gear in the coach for safekeeping. The lifejackets were checked and we descended a winding, stepped pathway to the rafts moored some 30 m below. We were sorted haphazardly into groups of seven or eight and allocated randomly to a raft.
0065acairns.jpgMy group consisted of Evelyn from Dublin, Gayle from the gold coast near Brisbane, Ted from Korea, Jim from England, Lee from China and one other girl who I think was from Japan. Our group was led by an experienced Australian Rafter named Sean and seen here wearing sunshades. 0065ccairns.jpgThe weather was warm and fortunately the humidity was not high as we started our voyage down the rapids. Due to the constraints of safety the progression was very piecemeal with all boats stopping after each whitewater stretch and the leaders of the boats taking turn to stand on rocks ahead with ropes to throw in case of people falling overboard and getting into difficulties.
0065dcairns.jpg There was also a video and camera crew recording our progress with a view to selling the photos and video later. The water was warm as it splashed over us. The girls screamed as the raft buckled and bent following the contours of the rough bubbling surface water. 0065ecairns.jpgThe sun came out for lengthy periods warming our clothes which were completely soaked after the second rapid and many of us had been in the water swimming as this was encouraged to give us confidence.

At 1230 we stopped for lunch which consisted of barbecued burgers, sausages and salad with fresh fruit, tea and coffee. By 1300 we were ready to set out again for the afternoon ride which turned out to be more continuous and great fun. The day finished at 1600 by which time the party had travelled 14 km on the exhilarating whitewater rapids. Here at the end of the run the tranquil stretch allowed the convoy of 12 rafts to come together enjoy free swimming time and allow the adrenalin levels to lower.

Each team carried the raft from the water to the transport vehicle before changing into dry clothing and catching the coach back to the staging point. Here we were given a snack of potato wedges, shown copies of the pictures that had been taken and the first ten minutes of the video. I ordered five photographs and a copy of the video.

On the two-hour journey back to our respective hotels most of the passengers including myself spent the time sleeping and recovering our energy. I spent the evening in the hotel dining in the restaurant and then working on my computer in order to relax after having had such an energetic day my body was very tired. I went to sleep at 0100.

Tuesday 5th December
The alarm on my mobile phone rang at 0715 but I was already awake. The bus to the Pro-dive school was sitting at the front of the hotel when I got there at five past eight. I spent the morning in the classroom and got all the tests correct. The afternoon was spent in the swimming pool where we learned the basic skills needed to scuba dive. It was very enjoyable and I found sitting under water to be a very tranquil and relaxing experience. Returned to the hotel at 1815 with my skin all wrinkled from the hours spent in the water. Dinner in the restaurant, updated my web page and managed to get the Bangkok page completed and uploaded before I went to sleep at 0100.

Wednesday 6th December
Another early start. I rose at 0650 and after cereal and coffee I was at the reception ready for the bus at 0735. Today we spent the morning in the pool but I find my instructor Nicole is very impatient and I am not the fastest learning pupil. I am determined that I will pass the course and it seems to me that she is trying to find reasons why I should not. Her attitude is negative and she keeps suggesting that I am having problems. However the instructor from the other course who appears to be senior to her tells her to persevere each time she consults him. I have no idea what they discuss as they speak in Swiss. At the last stage he asked me to stay in pool with his group. Spent some time explaining that I must use my legs more to steady myself and remain at the surface. He has given me more confidence and I am satisfied.

After lunch we went to the Pro-dive shop where we were shown all the equipment and I purchased a pair of fins, boots, a snorkel and a mask. The total cost about £123. I am hoping that by having my own properly fitting equipment I will feel more confident and it will give me an added incentive when we go on the boat tomorrow. I have lost nearly all my sun tan after spending so much time in the water. In the evening we went to a lecture and sideshow about the barrier Reef but I was very tired and kept falling asleep. Shared a taxi back to the hotel with two of the German lads, Hans and Frank. They are dong the course in German with Mick. We went to the bar and had beer and dinner together before I came to my room. I packed my bags ready for the morning.

Thursday 7th December
I slept well and woke up at 0410 which was as usual five minutes before my alarm was due to ring. The Pro-dive bus pulled up just after I had paid my hotel bill. It took the divers to the shop where we put the gear we had selected yesterday into neat stacks where it would be loaded onto the transport. We reboared the buses and went to Trinity Wharf where the boat was tied up alongsidse. By the time all the divers were collected and loaded on to the boat it was 0700 when we left the harbour.
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This is the boat that toook us out to the reef for our three days of scuba diving. It was spacious, well appointed, air-conditioned and comfortable.
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After we moored at our first diving
site everyone was anxious to get into
the water. We'd arrived at the reef at 1030 and were in the water for the first dive at 1055. Here my classmates are preparing the gear we had been issued with before getting some last-minute instructions about the dive.

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On the left Philippe, one of the other instructors prepares his kit. Mario, a German Italian sat to the left of his instructor Nick as he addresses members of our class. My impatient instructor Nicole is getting into her wetsuit ready to take us on our first salt water dive.
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Stepping off the ship into the Pacific Ocean for first-time. The dive went well and I enjoyed it very much. We practiced again in the ocean the skills that we'd learned in the school pool. It was a wonderful experience
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We found that there are always plenty fish swimming around the boat hoping
for morsels of food to fall overboard. They are colourful, playful and are
delightful to watch.
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The next diver is ready and about to take a step into the unknown.
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This is Jessie our cook for the duration who put a lot of hours into her work in the galley. She prepared a good variety of meals and snacks throughout the day.
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Chris, Capt of the boat and a master diver. He was always ready with help advice or assistance whenever needed.
I found him to be most supportive and with having Nicole allocated as my
instructor I certainly needed support
from time to time.
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I had hoped to pair up with my friend Hans but unfortunately he hadpersuaded a young lady to share his cabin. The gentleman allocated to share my cabin refused to share with a smoker albeit smoking inside was prohibited he suggested the smell from my clothing would set off his allergy. I had the luxury of a cabin to myself. I slept in the bottom bunk and I used the top one for easy storage.
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This is my friend Hans drinking coffee and filling out his diving log. Nicole had complained about him sharing with
the girl so in the end he had to share
with the non smoking senior citizen and
Nicole moved in with Hans' girl friend.
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Nick, the Swedish instructor will understand me so much better than Nicole. Fortunately he was senior to her and she had to do as he said.
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This couple, Peter and his wife were experienced divers who had come to take an advanced course.
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The experienced divers on the trip were given an opportunity to go for a night dive. This is Philippe who led the dive.
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The divers lowered themselves into the water and guided by the mooring rope began their descent to the seabed.
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This Indian gentleman called Nic I spent most of his life in Thailand and we chatted at some length about the events I had seen in Bangkok. Here he is about to go on the night dive.
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Next day at this picture of my friend Frank who is travelling with Hans before he became fully fitted up.
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Antoine took this picture of me saying "Com'on Iain it's time you had a picture of yourself. Show me how to use your camera." Naturally I couldn't refuse and this then is the result.
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I took this picture of Antoine and thanked him for taking mine.
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This is Michael and Barbara back
from the UK. They went to
Sydney ti get nmarried a couple of months ago and are now on an
extended honeymoon
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Here again is the wild man from
Thailand, a very interesting person
who runs a travel company.
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Here Darren supervises divers as they leave the platform.
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In order to send one has to empty all the air from one's BCD and this is what they are doing here.
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Philippe refills the empty tanks
ready for the next dive while Nick
stands by ready this for any
emergency that might occur.

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Darren the senior drive instructor waits to check everyone back on board when they have finished the dive.
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My friend Hans was a source of happiness and amusement throughout the trip.
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It appears that someone is in trouble so Nick dives in and swims out to the location of last siting and meanwhile the boat is sent to investigate.
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The diver in distress is helped on board
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The boat returns unconscious diver on board being attended by Nick. His BCD has been removed and is being towed behind the boat.
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This brings the boat alongside as Nick tries to comfort the diver.
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He has been given oxygen to assist his breathing.
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Once removed from the boat Peter
takes charge and checks the patients
cartoid for a pulse.
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That done the mask is removed and the patient and side so that any water may drain from his lungs.
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Mario came along to investigate what was happening and satisfy his natural curiosity.
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Having completed everything he
could do Peter appeared happy with
the situation now under control.
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Hans arrived back from his dive,
dripping water, a happy smile across
his handsome face told me he had enjoyed himself as I know he
loves to be underwater with the fish.
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Philippe too had returned and dried his handsome muscular torso. On seeing me with my camera and smile on his face to show his approval.
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All too soon the diving was over
and we had to return to Cairns.
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It was a miserable grey and dull day as we sat with our baggage on the quarterdeck.
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Cairns didn't look very inviting either as the city was under a layer of low grey rain clouds.
Friday 8th December
Unfortunately the monsoon is going to be around until March. Skies are grey but unlike the UK the rain here is warm. It's been raining nearly every day since I've been in Cairns and this unfortunately curtails one's other activities. Of course it didn't affect my diving course since that was indoors in the classroom and in a swimming pool the rain mattered little. Swimming in the sea with the colourful tropical fish was a wonderful experience which I enjoyed enormously.

Saturday 9th December
The Prodive bus dropped us off at the Colonial Club at 1700. I immediately put my clothes in the Laundry and got that chore out of the way before joining the boys in the foyer where we had arranged to share a taxi to the Cock & Bull for the last night dinner and party. It was an interesting evening and I ought to have brought my camera but didn't. The food was cood and we had a huge long table where no-one could easily talk to anyone more than a few places away.

It was an early ending social affair and I took a Taxi back with Hans and Frank. At the Colonial Club we took a couple of beers in the pool bar, then gossiped as fellows do before we all called it a day and turned in at 2330 pretty tired but happy, well fed and a little imbibed.

Back in my room exhausted after the intense efforts and concentration of the last five days I fell asleep straight away.

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